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Spring Rates, Brands and Conversion Charts

Spring Rates, Brands and Conversion Charts

– Introduction –

The two most popular units of measurement for coilover spring rate are kg/mm which refers to how many kilograms it takes to compress the spring 1mm and lbs/inch which refers to how many pounds it takes to compress the spring 1 inch. Here are a couple of quick spring rate conversion charts: 

Spring Rate Conversion Charts
kg/mm to lbs/inch Conversion Chart

3k = 167.994lbs/inch
4k = 223.992lbs/inch
5k = 279.990lbs/inch
6k = 335.988lbs/inch
7k = 391.986lbs/inch
8k = 447.984lbs/inch
9k = 503.982lbs/inch
10k = 559.980lbs/inch
11k = 615.978lbs/inch
12k = 671.976lbs/inch
13k = 727.974lbs/inch
14k = 783.972lbs/inch
15k = 839.970lbs/inch
16k = 895.968lbs/inch
17k = 951.966lbs/inch
18k = 1007.964lbs/inch
19k = 1063.962lbs/inch
20k = 1119.960lbs/inch

lbs/inch to kg/mm Conversion Chart

150lbs/inch = 2.685k
200lbs/inch = 3.580k
250lbs/inch = 4.475k
300lbs/inch = 5.370k
350lbs/inch = 6.265k
400lbs/inch = 7.160k
450lbs/inch = 8.055k
500lbs/inch = 8.950k
550lbs/inch = 9.845k
600lbs/inch = 10.740k
650lbs/inch = 11.635k
700lbs/inch = 12.530k
750lbs/inch = 13.425k
800lbs/inch = 14.320k
850lbs/inch = 15.215k
900lbs/inch = 16.110k
950lbs/inch = 17.005k
1000lbs/inch = 17.900k
1100lbs/inch = 19.690k
1200lbs/inch = 21.480k

– Why Does Spring Rate Matter? –

One of the most important decisions you will make when you purchase coilovers is deciding what spring rates to go with. How stiff or soft would you like the car to ride? How much understeer or oversteer are you looking for? Is your top priority smooth ride quality or the best possible handling or a combination of both? How far below stock ride height would you like to lower your car?

These are the questions you need to ask yourself. Then you need someone who truly understands your chassis and how it reacts to different rates to advise you if you want to get the results you’re looking for the first time without doing an enormous amount of research. No one has more experience with this than Cygnus Performance, LLC. We have specialized in custom coilovers since 2006. Day in day out for more than 16 years we have advised customers on spring rate. Spring rates dramatically affect the way your car performs and rides, so getting this right is absolutely mission critical.

– Can You Change Spring Rate In The Future? –

This all depends on what coilovers you buy. On many lower quality brands you cannot change spring rate without revalving the shock which is a costly and time-consuming process. Our coilovers feature industry-leading levels of rebound adjustment which will allow you to change spring rates in the future without revalving. If your needs change and you want your car to be more or less aggressive you will have the flexibility to significantly change rate with Cygnus Performance X-1 coilovers. All of our products offer a large rebound adjustment range, and some of our products offer more rebound adjustment than anything else in the industry. When it comes to damping adjustment range more is always better. Damping adjustment range has nothing to do with the number of clicks a rebound adjustment knob has. It’s what these clicks do that matters. All Cygnus Performance X-1 coilovers provide a very large difference in damping force between full soft and full stiff.

– Why Is Spring Brand Important? –

In a word: Accuracy. Low quality springs tend to have a lot of rate distortion. If you have a 7k spring and you hit a pothole even though the spring is supposed to be linear and stay close to 7k throughout the range of compression it will often jump up by 20% or more which is very bad for ride quality. It’s also not good for consistency when you’re cornering. Low quality springs often don’t match the rate printed on the side. A 10k spring might actually be closer to 8k or 12k. One supposedly identical spring might not match the next. This is obviously not good for handling. The car may not feel the same when you are turning left as when you are turning right. You may have different amounts of understeer or oversteer than you desire, and the overall neutrality of the car could end up being pretty inconsistent. Low quality springs also tend to sag and change over time. This means you lose preload, ride height changes and rate likely changes as well. A spring may seem like a simple part because it’s just a piece of steel, but as you can see it’s a very important piece of steel. After the damper this is the most important component of your entire suspension.

The most accurate springs that we have experienced after 16 years of custom coilover builds and running hundreds of springs through rate testers are not 100% perfect, but they are massively better than the entry level springs that come on most coilover brands. They are much more linear, they have very little distortion, and they typically don’t sag, settle or change rate over time. This will have an extremely positive impact on both ride quality and handling. If your springs are not working properly the rest of your suspension does not matter. We always highly encourage people to upgrade their springs if it’s within their budget.

– The Springs We Offer –

We work closely with both Swift and Hyperco to custom manufacture the highest quality coilover springs in the world. These springs are manufactured both in the United States and Japan. The springs we sell are extremely accurate. They are almost perfectly linear, and they have very little distortion. They don’t sag, they don’t settle, and they have a lifetime warranty that you’ll never have to use.

We work with the best manufacturers in the world to create specifications that are not available in their standard catalog when necessary. This can sometimes be very important. For example, Hyperco did not have a 7k or 400lb 7 in 60mm ID spring in their catalog. We purchased thousands of these in order to offer them because this was a critical rate for many of the Subaru applications that we build coilovers for.

We offer springs with application specific R&D behind them which is something that virtually no other coilover manufacturer is doing. We purchase these springs thousands at a time in order to get the best price on them then pass the savings onto you. We put our time and money into sourcing and developing the best possible components to get you the best possible results. We don’t spend money on advertising. We don’t spend money on wholesale distributors. We don’t spend money on a complicated dealer network. We sell our suspension directly to you, so when you buy suspension from us you get more for your money than you do with any other brand.

– We Are Here To Help –

If you have any questions about springs, spring rates or anything else please feel free to contact us anytime!

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Redefining What Is Possible With Affordable Coilovers

Redefining What Is Possible With Affordable Coilovers

The latest versions of Cygnus Performance X-1 coilovers are now live on our website! Pricing starts at just $1,650. We are offering options and features that are not available on any other coilover set in this price range. When it comes to the components that affect ride quality, performance and shock longevity zero corners have been cut. We offer high-quality Japanese bearings, Japanese rubber top hats, Swedish shims, high viscosity index group 5 fully synthetic shock oil, CNC’d Japanese pistons and every Cygnus Performance shock is assembled and fully dyno tested in the United States for perfect results every time.
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Every coilover set we offer is truly application-specific. The stroke lengths, shock valving, spring rates and shock oil weight have all been specifically developed or selected for your application. Our European style digressive valving gets you very similar results to coilovers costing two or three times as much. We offer all of this in a price range where the competition is selling generic shocks that were not specifically developed for your application and are made entirely overseas from low-quality components.
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On top of all of this we offer the most comprehensive pre and post sales support in the business. No one spends more time with customers before the sale ensuring that you are ordering coilovers that best fit your needs. No one spends more time with customers after the sale to ensure that all questions are answered, everything is set up properly and you are happy with the results.
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We are able to offer so much value for an affordable price because we are more efficient. We cut out all of the unnecessary middlemen. There are no wholesale distributors involved, and we rely on happy customers to do the majority of our advertising. Better ride quality. Better performance. Better longevity. Better value. Cygnus Performance X-1 Coilovers
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https://cygnusperformance.com

@hyperco_hypercoils
@swiftsprings

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08-22 WRX and STi Rear Camber and Toe Correction

08-22 WRX and STi Rear Camber and Toe Correction

– Introduction –
For many people this is going to be the second most important suspension modification after a good set of coilovers and the most important supporting mod to go with their new coilover set. I know I’ve typed up a couple of replies to questions about this in the group, but I wanted to make an official comprehensive post. In this post I will cover both why/when adding aftermarket adjustment is recommended and the brands and components that I personally recommend using. Although they are not on our website yet I have also decided to start selling these components again after a long hiatus.

In the interest of keeping this post more concise I am going to assume that readers understand what camber and toe are. If you’re not sure what these terms mean an internet search for a quick illustration would be the best way of understanding it.

– When is Adding Rear Alignment Adjustment Important? –
Off the showroom floor these cars do not have rear camber adjustment. It’s important to note that this does not necessarily mean your rear camber values are very good off the showroom floor. Oftentimes these cars have pretty bad camber numbers even at stock ride height. Sometimes left and right camber are very far from symmetrical. Over the years I’ve sold many sets of rear lower control arms to customers who need alignment correction even though they have not changed ride height. When you start changing ride height matters only get worse. You pick up a pretty significant amount of static negative camber when you lower these cars.

When your rear camber values are too high/too low, not symmetrical or both you can expect accelerated tire wear, less than ideal handling and sometimes the car will even pull to the side on the highway. Aside from improving handling, adding adjustment if you need it typically will pay for itself pretty quickly by extending the life of your tires.

Adding rear camber adjustment is always a good thing provided that you are adding it with high quality components. Without it the rear camber values are pretty much guaranteed not to be perfect. The importance of aftermarket alignment adjustment for your car is going to come down to four main variables which are how far off your alignment was when your car was new, how much it has changed since, how much lower or higher than stock you’re adjusting ride height by and how you want to set alignment. Obviously there is really no way of definitively knowing how critical adding rear camber adjustment is until you get the car on the alignment rack, but virtually every single person who owns one of these cars will benefit from having adjustment at least to some degree.

– Ways of Adding Rear Camber Adjustment –
Unlike with the front of the car you cannot adjust rear camber via camber plate. Camber plates only work on MacPherson struts. We do offer rear camber plates on the older models that use MacPherson struts on all four corners, but because the rear is multilink on any 2008+ WRX or STi rear camber plates are not an option with any coilover set for these applications.

There are four main ways of adding rear camber adjustment. You can do it with adjustable rear lower control arms, adjustable rear upper control arms, eccentric upper control arm bushings or eccentric lower control arm bushings. In my opinion you can eliminate two of these options right off the bat because these bushing kits with offset tubes are more trouble than they are worth. They do cost a bit less than going with a full arm, but that is the one and only advantage. They have a very finite range typically only giving you about 0.75° of adjustment, they are finicky to adjust which makes getting the values you want and getting things symmetrical difficult, they use low quality urethane bushings that are a downgrade from the stock bushings and on top of all of that most alignment shops have no idea what to do with them and the ones who do typically charge you extra because of the difficulty of adjusting them which negates any advantage with price. They are a waste of time – don’t buy them.

This leaves full upper control arms and full lower control arms as the two viable options of adding rear camber adjustment. For the vast majority of people rear lower control arms are going to be the way to go. They are more accessible and significantly easier to adjust. They offer more adjustment range, and there are a lot more options on the market. In rare instances adding an adjustable upper control arm in conjunction with an adjustable lower control arm can be helpful to have better control of offset, but this is not going to be necessary or beneficial for most people.

– Additional Rear Toe Adjustment –
These cars do have factory toe adjustment, but when you add rear camber adjustment this factory toe adjustment is often insufficient. It’s an eccentric bolt with a finite adjustment range that was not designed to compensate for camber adjustment. A turnbuckle toe arm is the best way of adding additional toe adjustment. It’s easy to adjust, and it has plenty of range no matter what you are doing. As with rear lower control arms there is no downside to adding this adjustment as long as you go with a high quality toe arm. I also like to remove the factory eccentric adjustment when turnbuckle toe arms are added since it becomes redundant. A straight bolt that eliminates it makes adjusting things less finicky and greatly reduces the chance of anything slipping.

– Rear Camber and Toe Values –
I wanted to add this section just so readers understand that I am deliberately omitting this information from this post. Recommended alignment values are a long discussion and highly dependent on individual uses. I will make a future post that comprehensively covers recommended alignment values for specific uses. In this post I will simply say that while adding adjustment is always beneficial it becomes highly recommended if you have less negative camber than -1 or more negative camber than -2 or if rear camber is different from left to right by more than half a degree.

I should also point out that alignment values on pre-2008 WRXs and STis are not an apples to apples comparison with the newer cars. Dynamic camber characteristics have to do with how camber changes as the suspension is compressed (eg when you are cornering). The dynamic camber characteristics with unequal length double wishbones is superior to MacPherson strut dynamic camber characteristics. Because of this you need less static negative camber (the camber value when the car is sitting on a flat surface) in the rear of the newer cars than you did with the older cars.

– The Brands I Recommend –
As with any suspension mod the quality of the components you buy is absolutely mission critical. Just as with coilovers when it comes to lower control arms and toe arms low quality overseas made options can be very problematic and a big downgrade from stock. If you go with high quality components adding alignment adjustment will not be the only benefit that you experience. You will also end up almost completely eliminating unwanted movement and play in these suspension components. Less unwanted movement and play and better articulation will greatly improve suspension function. You’ll be able to tell what the car is doing at the limit, and handling will be noticeably more precise and confidence inspiring.

Some of you have been following my suspension tech posts for a long time. I have been making them in places like Nasioc since 2006 and for more than a decade here on Facebook. My opinions and recommendations when it comes to manufacturers are always evolving. As some of you have seen I am not afraid to contradict myself or change my recommendation if a product changes or if my own experiences and research provide new information. I am not married to any of these third-party manufacturers or suppliers. For the most part I can sell whatever I like which means that I sell what I recommend rather than the other way around. My sole interest is getting you guys the best possible results and value for your money.

With all of that said my recommendations on brands when it comes to these components have changed several times over the years, and recently they have changed again. For many years now my go-to recommendations for aftermarket control arms and toe arms have been Cusco if you’re not worried about budget and SPC if you want something cost-effective. Although these are no longer my top recommendations they are still a reasonable way to go and better than the majority of the competition.

Although SPC is still probably the best cost-effective option it’s a slotted sliding style rather than a turnbuckle style. This makes adjustment more difficult, and it significantly reduces adjustment range. A turnbuckle is a better solution. The problem with a turnbuckle is a good turnbuckle is not cheap, so if you want to spend $400 or less you don’t want a turnbuckle. If you have the budget for something high quality ($600+) a turnbuckle is always the way to go. Adjustment is easier, and you have far more of it.

I currently have three Subarus in my fleet which are a 2013 STi hatch, a 2017 manual transmission Forester and a 2020 Outback Touring XT. For years now I have been running SPL on the STi and Cusco on the Forester. These are my two favorite turnbuckle adjustable lower control arms. Cusco was my top recommendation simply because it has a sealed heim joint rather than an open heim joint like most of the other options. After seeing cheap heim joints make noise or fail completely I felt that recommending something that was sealed better served our customers who were daily driving. However, after many years of running these two control arm sets a recent incident made me rethink all of this. One of the Cusco heim joints failed. Upon closer inspection the seal was trapping moisture and dirt and doing more harm than good. I would guess that the seal probably did do its job properly for a couple seasons, but my American made SPL heim joints are still going strong. I do hit them with spray lithium once a year, but that’s not really a big deal.

The failed bearing alone is not what caused me to change my recommendation though. It was the solution to the failed bearing that was the bigger issue for me. Although I have not had to replace them, the high quality American made FK heim joints that SPL sources out of Connecticut only cost about $15 a piece to replace. They are very nice component that is Teflon lined and produces very little friction. The fact that you can get a high quality heim joint made in the United States for this price shows you how cheap these lower quality brands are being when they get something that probably costs less than $1 out of China. With Cusco it seems that you are looking at the typical JDM tax. These are $157.50 each to replace, and because they are made overseas having a quick replacement is not guaranteed. Admittedly I have no idea what it costs Cusco to produce one of these, but when I look at it next to the $15 SPL component that outlasted it I personally can’t figure out a good reason that it should cost 10 times the price.

Aside from my own personal experiences with longevity and ease of adjustment when compared to SPC and Cusco I like SPL because it’s CNC’d in the United States from 6061 billet rather than welded or stamped. They use a triple electroless nickel plated adjuster which has been totally bulletproof for me. They also give you multiple mounting point options for the rear shocks and end links which is nice.

They offer a turnbuckle toe arm that eliminates the redundant factory eccentric toe bolts which is always a good idea when you are adding a turnbuckle adjustable toe arm. As with the lower control arms these use components that are easily replaceable in the United States if you ever need anything which is a huge advantage over some of these other brands.

SPL is my top recommendation for both of these components. They also manufacture trailing arms, adjustable length end links and a roll center adjustment kit that is actually adjustable for different ride heights. The benefits of these other components is beyond the scope of this post, but I’m happy to help if anyone has any questions.

About a year or two ago we removed all of these supporting mods from our website. When it came to tech support I was spread too thin, and I wanted to make sure there were no compromises when it came to supporting our coilovers. Even if it costs me money I always want to run a business that I would personally be happy with purchasing something from which means a lifetime of real tech support before and after the sale. I decided that these supporting components are important enough that we really need to sell them with our coilovers. In the coming weeks we will be adding SPL back to our website (CygnusPerformance.com). In the meantime I’m happy to get anyone who is interested the best price on these components with free shipping and no sales tax to most destinations. Please feel free to PM me if I can help.

– Thank You –

If you found this technical post helpful please share it. You guys spreading the word is greatly helpful to me. It’s why I’m able to spend my time typing this stuff up rather than advertising. I will continue to do everything I can to get people in the Subaru community the best possible value and results with their suspension. Thanks for reading, and if you have any questions feel free to post them below or PM me 🙂👍

Thanks,

Geoff

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Shock Oil Testing

Shock Oil Testing

Testing oil options for our Cygnus Performance X-1 Coilovers. We are simulating conditions that are far beyond anything that you will actually subject your suspension to. This video shows a shock dyno running continuously at 20 inches per second. We are torture testing several different types of oil for 24 hours straight. We constantly monitor damping force and temperature. After many different tests shocks are fully broken down. Components and seals are inspected. Oil is fully analyzed. This is only the beginning. Once all of our controlled lab tests give us some initial data we will run the oil in real-world conditions on actual cars that are driven on the street and on the track. Many of the coilover brands that cost well over $3,000 don’t do any of this. No one else does this at the sub $2k price range.⠀⠀⠀⠀
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If all customers truly understood the difference between what we are doing and what every other shock manufacturer in this price range is doing we would sell every set of coilovers in this price range. No one else does this level of Subaru specific R&D. No one else uses high-quality European and Japanese internal components at this price point and virtually no one else builds and dynos coilovers in the United States at this price point. Proper suspension R&D, high-quality components and strict quality control will get you dramatically better results. Better performance, better ride quality, better longevity and better support. Cygnus Performance.
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Spring Rates

Spring Rates

There is no additional cost to customize spring rates on our Cygnus Performance X-1 coilovers, and unlike most coilover brands in this price range we actually valve your shocks to match your desired spring rates. The standard rates are the most popular choice. They do everything well. The standard rates are soft enough that daily driving remains comfortable and stiff enough that handling will be considerably better than stock with significantly less body roll. They are are also stiff enough to allow for a fairly aggressive drop in ride height. The default setup is a good compromise between all of these attributes, and it’s the most balanced setup. Coilovers are not a one size fits all product though, and that is why the custom rates are a no cost option.

If smooth ride quality for daily driving is a top priority you may want to consider softer spring rates. How much softer to go than standard is application dependent, but normally a 1k reduction in rate is sufficient. The downside of softening the rate is more body roll, but handling will still be considerably better than stock. If the best possible handling and minimal body roll are your top priorities you may want to consider going with a stiffer rate. There are many factors involved in determining how much to increase rate for the best possible handling. The stiffer you go, the harsher the car will be on a bad road for daily driving. The final thing to consider is front to rear bias which affects the overall neutrality of the car and whether it is going to understeer or oversteer.

Choosing appropriate spring rates is mission critical to getting the results you are looking for with coilovers of any kind. Whether you are going with our coilovers or one of the many other custom brands we offer, Cygnus Performance, takes the guesswork out of spring rates. We even guarantee that you will be happy with our rate recommendation, or we will sell you replacement springs at half cost anytime in the future. Don’t let a generic performance parts shop give you bad advice. Let Cygnus Performance, an industry leading suspension specialty shop, get you the results you’re looking for the first time.

***Addressing all possible scenarios with the various applications that we manufacture coilovers for is beyond the scope of this post. If you would like help choosing spring rates that best fit your goals please contact us. We have spent the last 15 years day in day out helping people with this question, and we would love to hear from you!***

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How to Set Preload

How to Set Preload

Setting Preload. This applies to all Cygnus Performance coilovers for all Subaru applications:
 
The preload values are 1/4″ front and 1/8″ rear.
 
In order to set preload you need to first loosen the lower spring perch which is the collar at the bottom of the spring (start by loosening the 5mm hex cinch bolt then use the included spanner wrench to loosen the perch itself). You want to make sure the spring is not compressed at all. From there measure the free length of the spring. It should be something close to 7 inches, but because of the way the springs are cycled at the factory it could be a bit shorter or even a bit longer.
 
Once you have this number tighten the lower spring perch until the spring length is reduced by the desired amount of preload. Tighten the cinch bolt. Preload is set 👍
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Monotube vs Twintube

Monotube vs Twintube

Anyone who is buying coilovers for their Subaru should watch the following two videos. One of them is less than a minute long, and the other is just over two minutes long. These three minutes and change will be more beneficial than hours of Facebook group research. There are a lot of factors to consider when purchasing shocks, but one fundamental, critical thing to understand is the difference between twintube and monotube shocks.
 
The only real advantage with twintubes is the fact that they’re cheap to manufacture. Monotubes will outperform twintubes in pretty much every measurable way. Monotubes do not suffer from cavitation the way that twintubes do which means that monotubes are far more consistent. This gives you both better performance and a better ride quality. The piston diameter is much greater which makes the usable piston surface area almost three times the size in many cases. Greater piston surface area means more damping adjustment, and it also means that the engineers designing the shock are able to make it far more digressive which again means both better ride quality and better performance. Because a monotube shock piston directly touches the outer wall of the shock body monotubes shed heat a lot better which is a critical part of a shock absorber’s main job (converting kinetic energy into thermal energy). They also have significantly more oil capacity. Shock oil only gets changed every 30k-70k miles, so greater capacity really helps with things like shearing and viscosity index over time.
 
Recently I have seen a lot of people going with twintube options that are overpriced, don’t last as long, don’t perform as well, ride worse and have significantly less rebound adjustment when they could be buying something high quality and monotube for the same money. If you are planning on purchasing coilovers for your Subaru spend a couple of minutes and watch these videos. We offer everything from the best value for the dollar monotube coilover set for these cars to the absolute highest end monotube coilovers money can buy. Not many vendors or manufacturers are willing to have public technical discussions on shocks anymore which is a shame. We have built our reputation on getting customers better results for less money when it comes to suspension. Adamantly recommending monotube shocks over twintube shocks for the past 13 years is one of the ways that we have been able to do this.
 
 
Bilstein’s video:
 
If you guys have any questions about monotube vs. twintube or anything related to coilovers or suspension mods I’ll be glad to help here if you reply to this post, or you are also always welcome to contact me directly. 👍
 
Thanks,
Geoff
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Independent Preload Adjustment vs Helper Springs

Independent Preload Adjustment vs Helper Springs

This picture shows the two main styles of height adjustable coilovers. The shock on the left uses a helper spring to keep tension on the main spring. The shock on the right allows the user to lock preload with the lower spring perch independent of ride height adjustment. With the helper spring style the shock is a single piece. Ride height adjustment is achieved by adjusting lower spring perch which is the ring that the bottom of the helper spring (the short blue spring) sits on. The independent preload style uses a separate lower mount. The entire shock sits inside of this lower mount. Ride height is adjusted by spinning the entire shock up and down in this lower mount.
 
The amount of tension on the mainspring of a shock is referred to as preload. If there isn’t enough preload the spring will unseat and make noise. If there is too much preload there can be other issues such as spring bind.
 
I have sold many of both styles over the years. Personally, I prefer independent preload for a number of reasons. With independent preload ride height adjustment and corner balancing is much less finicky. With the helper spring style both preload and stroke are affected when ride height is adjusted. Without independent preload adjustment we often have to custom spec main spring and helper spring lengths in order to get customers the ride height they want without noise or other issues. If the customer decides to change ride height in the future they sometimes need different seings to do it.
 
With independent preload adjustment getting the ride height you want is quick and easy because preload isn’t changing. Lowering the car also isn’t taking up shock stroke because you’re moving the shock itself rather than moving the spring and letting the shaft of the shock use up stroke as you go lower. This makes it much easier to design a shock that works properly at the ride height a customer desires. It also means the end user will have a very consistent feel from the suspension regardless of ride height setting. Whether they are at the highest setting, the lowest setting or anywhere in between, the suspension will feel the same.
 
One advantage that the helper spring style sometimes has is the ability to run a higher ride height, but Cygnus Performance gives you the best of both worlds because we offer custom shock lengths. This is something that is quite unique that very few manufacturers are able to offer. We can get you independent preload adjustment to make life easy, and we can also maximize shock length/stroke/travel by providing you with shocks specifically tailored to your needs. We can also get you any ride height range you want. If you want to lower the car aggressively we can do that. If you want to raise your car we can do that, and we can do anything in between. Custom coilovers get you much better results because they aren’t sitting in a box with a bunch of compromises that are supposed to work for everybody. They are built for you to help you reach your goals with your car.
 
With that said, we are about to release some pre-configured, ready to ship X-1 coilover options with published ride height ranges. If the range and options are well suited to your goals then it will be a great way of getting coilovers quickly. Otherwise we will always offer our fully custom products because custom suspension will continue to be the only way to get many customers the results they’re looking for.
 
All Cygnus Performance X-1/X-2/X-3 coilover sets, and all custom Cygnus Performance Ohlins, Penske and Fortune Auto coilovers feature independent preload adjustment.